Switzerland: Heavenly Heart of Europe

By Margaret Johnson

Bern's Zytglogge, with its chimes pealing at four minutes before every hour and mechanical figures performing a short routine, is one of the capital's most popular attractions.
Bern's Zytglogge

Tell people you're heading to Italy and they ask "where?" Tell them you're going to France and they ask "when?" Tell them you're visiting Switzerland and they ask "why?"

This lovely country in the geographic and cultural heart of Europe sees only about 725,000 U.S. visitors annually -- compared to the 4.9 million to Italy and 3.2 million to France -- so the "why" comes nearly as an affront to someone like me who's just spent eight glorious days sampling Zurich, Bern, Lucerne and Interlaken. Forget the staid images of cuckoo clocks, pocketknives, and flower-decked chalets, I say, and get ready to be dazzled by bustling cities oozing with great shopping, fabulous food, exciting events, and some of the most hospitable people you'll meet anywhere. And if you really want some of the world's most beautiful scenery, Switzerland's the right place for that, too.

ZURICH

Switzerland's largest city (population 370,000) is probably more renowned as a center of finance than of fun, but anyone who has visited Zurich recently will be quick to note that once the "gnomes" (the affectionate term for bankers and insurance execs) come out of their offices, the city really comes alive. Sometimes called a "metropolis of experience," Zurich is situated on both sides of the Limmat River, which flows from the northern end of Lake Zurich, and has loads of offerings beyond trading stocks and hiding money.

The city has more than 50 museums and 100 art galleries, many of them along the Ramistrasse "art mile"; elegant and expensive Bahnhofstrasse, one of the world's most famous shopping streets; a beautiful Alstadt, Old Town; the highest density of clubs (both straight and gay) in the country (with no official closing hours); and some of the country's most creative cuisine. In summer, Zurich's waterfront is the place to be, with lakeside swimming baths, riverside lidos, impromptu cultural events, and al fresco bars and lounges.

Visiting in October wasn't so bad either, and my short break forced me to make some quick touring decisions. Arriving by train into Zurich Hauptbahnhof, the main railway station, you're in the center of everything. Exit one way and you can stroll down Zurich's famous "station road," Bahnhofstrasse, to Paradeplatz, its financial hub. When your sweet tooth kicks in, visit Confiserie Sprungli, the country's most famous chocolatier, at this intersection.

Founded in 1836, Sprungli (www.spruengli.ch) developed the first "melt-in-the-mouth" chocolate for which the Swiss are famous, and later "Truffes du Jour" (chocolates best consumed on the day they're made) and "Luxemburgerli," delicate macaroon-like cookies with butter cream filling. For an authentic taste of Zurich, nearby Restaurant Zeughauskeller (Bahnhofstrasse 28a, www.zeughauskeller.ch), serves Swiss cuisine in what was once an ancient arsenal. Sausages and the traditional veal specialty "Zurcher Geschnetzeltes" are a "must."

Exit at the front of the station, cross the river, and wander along the banks of the Limmat, or zigzag through the narrow cobblestone streets of Alstadt. For a more tutored excursion, join the classic "Stroll Through the Old Town" guided tour that traces the 2,000-year-old history of the city. Stops include the remains of Roman thermal spas, medieval guild houses, the Grossmunster with its two towers, and the Fraumunster with stained-glass windows by Marc Chagall in the choir. For details, visit the information office at the railway station or log onto (www.zuerich.com).

BERN AND INTERLAKEN

You might be surprised to learn that, Bern, not Zurich, has been the capital of the Swiss Confederation since 1848. Noted for its well-preserved, medieval Alstadt, Bern became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983, and its residents are passionate about maintaining the culture, heritage, and architecture that earned the city this honor. It's about an hour by train from Zurich.

Because of its intimate scale, a visitor can easily tour the Old Town in a few hours, but that would be without shopping, one of the city's most enjoyable experiences. Bern has one of Europe's longest covered shopping areas -- four miles to be exact -- under arcades that date to the city's earliest days. Called "lauben," the arcades run along the Marktgasse (the main street at the western end), Kramgasse (which begins at the famous clock tower, Zytglogge) and Munstergasse (where a Tuesday and Saturday morning street market takes place). The "lauben" keep shoppers cool in summer and dry in bad weather, and the stores tend to feature boutique and specialty items rather than international labels. Many of the shop's cellars, previously used for storage of supplies, are now art galleries, wine shops, jazz clubs, and bars.

Bern is located on a spit of land bordered on three sides by the Aare River, so just about anywhere you walk you're guaranteed beautiful views. If you take a walking tour with a guide from the tourist office (visit www.berninfo.com), you can climb the tower of the Zytglogge, Bern's masterpiece of medieval watch-making craftsmanship, for a look at the mechanism of the 16th-century clock and an even more impressive aerial look over the capital's medieval streets and roofs.

The clock tower is definitely a crowd-pleaser, with its chimes pealing at four minutes before every hour and mechanical figures performing a short routine (a bit like Munich's Glockenspiel) before the clock strikes the hour. After your climb, drop by nearby Restaurant Brasserie Anker (Kornhausplatz 16, www.roeschti.ch) to sample one of their traditional rostis, a grated and fried potato dish popular in these German-speaking parts of Switzerland. The house special, Zytglogge Roschti, comes with sausage, bacon, and a fried egg, but rosti can be served plain or with additions like onions, ham, or cheese.

The capital is also the starting place for excursions to the Bernese Oberland, a mountainous region and popular tourist destination that rises to the south of two lakes -- Thun and Brienz -- and sits at the foot of the famous trio of peaks -- the Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau. Interlaken, our next destination, sits between the two lakes and is one of Switzerland's oldest and most popular resorts. A haven for youthful hikers, bikers, skiers, and adventurous hang-gliders, the lovely hotels in the Interlaken region (visit www.interlaken.ch) are also delightful for porch-sitters, luxury-seekers, and folks who prefer pampering to paragliding. Count me in!

After a fabulous treatment at the ESPA Spa at the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel, Interlaken's "grand dame," we did embark on what turned out to be quite an adventure to the Schilthorn (www.schilthorn.ch), a mountain peak noted for its great views -- you know, "on a clear day you can see forever." Made famous by scenes in the 1969 James Bond film "On Her Majesty's Secret Service," reaching the Schilthorn (elevation 9,748 ft.) is no easy feat: train from Interlaken Ost to Lauterbrunnen; postal bus from train to cable car station; then cable cars to Stechelberg, Gimmelwald, and Murren, with classic Alpine scenery over one of Switzerland's deepest U-shaped valleys. So far, so good.

Between Murren (5,374 ft.) and Birg (8,783 ft.), the altitude got the better of us, and by the time we reached Piz Gloria, the revolving restaurant at the top of the Schilthorn, about all we could see was the waitress. We had better luck on our descent down through the clouds and stopped at Hotel Alpenruth (www.alpenruh-muerren.ch) in sunny Murren for another rosti lunch, this time with pears and blue cheese, with a glass of cold beer and lovely Swiss wine. The moral of the story: "check the weather forecast before you go."

LUCERNE

Like most of Switzerland's major cities, location, location, location is one of Lucerne's selling points. Situated ideally on the River Reuss and Lake Lucerne, the capital of the canton of Luzern (the German spelling) is the most important city in Central Switzerland. One of the most picturesque as well, Lucerne was always a city of bridges, and today the flower-decked Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrucke), with its series of 17th-century paintings on triangular panes, and the Mills Bridge (Spreuerbrucke), with 65 painted panels featuring the famous "Dance of Death," are the city's trademarks.

A walk through Lucerne's Alstadt takes you through lovely old squares and past frescoed buildings and guild halls and on to the city's other most visited monument, the Dying Lion of Lucerne (Lowendenkmal), a massive figure of a dying lion hewn out of natural rock. Carved to honor the memory of the death of Swiss mercenaries at the Tuileries in 1792, Mark Twain called it "the saddest and most moving piece of rock in the world."

Much like Zurich, Lucerne's river and lakeside promenades are popular for walking, picnicking, and swimming, and most of the city's grandest hotels are situated on the north bank. The stunning KKL building (Lucerne Culture and Convention Center, home of the Lucern Festival) juts out over the south bank. For sampling local cuisine in this German-speaking city, look for a wirsthaus, gasthaus, or stubli like Wursthaus Taube (Burgerstrasse 3, www.taube-luzern.ch) where they serve Alplermagrone (Alpine macaroni and cheese made with boiled potatoes and topped with apples) in tins that looks like milking buckets, or Lozarner Chugelipastete (a puff-pastry shell filled with diced veal and mushrooms in a creamy sauce). For details on festivals, events, accommodations, visit www.luzern.com.

Where To Stay And Dine in Switzerland

Eden au Lac, Utoquai 45, the only luxury hotel situated directly on the shores of Lake Zurich, is considered one of the city's most beautiful buildings. With the French flair of its art nouveau design, the hotel has an intimate, almost club-like atmosphere and is only a short walk from all the major city sites. If you find yourself in a lake-facing room with a wrought iron balcony, you might never want to leave. No reason to head out for dinner either, as Restaurant Eden, headed by Chef Ludovic Pitrel, serves an outstanding French-Mediterranean menu spiced up with influences from Morocco. Our dinner for two, without wine, was 180 CHF (about $150US). Double rooms start at 280 CHF ($236US); phone 44-266-2525 or visit www.edenaulac.ch.

Bellevue Palace, Kochergasse 3-5, is the only five-star hotel in Bern. Sitting next to the Swiss Parliament with views over the Aare River and the Old Town, it's a favorite spot for delegates when Parliament is in session, but enjoys a lively mix of guests from around the world. The hotel has 130 rooms and suites, two restaurants -- the cozy, casual Bellevue Grill for winter dining, and La Terrasse, where meals are served on the porch with views over the river and Bernese Alps. Our dinner for two in La Terrasse, without wine, was 150 CHF ($126US). Double rooms start at 390 CHF ($328US); phone 31-320-4646 or visit www.bellevue-palace.ch.

Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel and Spa, Hoheweg 41, sits majestically on Interlaken's main street facing three panoramic mountain peaks. Originally two hotels, the Victoria and the Jungfrau were joined in the early 1990s by a stylish glass and steel "boulevard" lobby bringing the number of rooms and suites to 212; in 1992, the 60,000 sq. ft. ESPA Spa was added. With three restaurants -- chic La Terrasse serves French-inspired cuisine, La Pastateca is a casual pasta emporium, and the Brasserie serves only Swiss cuisine. Dinner for two in the Brasserie where we dined was 140 CHF ($118US), without wine. Double rooms start at 680 CHF ($573US); phone 33-828-2880 or visit www.victoria-jungfrau.ch.

Palace Luzern, Haldenstrasse 10, offers a unique combination of Alpine scenery, lakeside location, and close proximity to the center of Lucerne. The hotel's neo-classic facade is in stylish contrast to the sophisticated, contemporary design of the hotel's 136 rooms and suites. A new ESPA spa complements amenities like three restaurants -- Jasper serves Mediterranean cuisine on the lake-level and the terrace, Les Artistes offers fish and seasonal specialties, and Le Maritime is a popular warm weather spot for light fare on a patio between the hotel and the lake. Our dinner for two in Jasper was 170 CHF ($143US), without wine. Double rooms start at 510 CHF ($429US); phone 41-416-1616 or www.palace-luzern.ch.

Switzerland Visitor Information

For tourist information on Switzerland, visit www.myswitzerland.com. The tourist information office in Interlaken is at Hoheweg 37; in Zurich, Bern, and Lucerne, offices are conveniently located in the main railway stations. Train travel is the most efficient and scenic way to see the country, so before you go, visit www.raileurope or www.myswitzerland to purchase tickets, Swiss rail passes and packages. The currency in Switzerland is the Swiss franc, but Euros are accepted. All phone numbers are for local calls; from the United States dial 011+ 41+ local number.

Travel | Switzerland: Heavenly Heart of Europe