Not Your Grandfather's Branson

Flying high on the Giant Swing at Silver Dollar City in Branson, Mo

My friends think I'm crazy.

That's because I have found the most unlikely of vacation spots: Branson, Mo. A town of 6,000 inhabitants nestled in the rolling Ozark Mountains, Branson has grown into one of the most popular tourist destinations in the country. Hard to believe, though, for people who like myself journeyed to this hamlet back in the 1970s to visit Silver Dollar City, then an old-time amusement park that peddled corn husk dolls and homemade candles made while you watched.

Times -- They Have Changed

In the early 1990s, Branson gained worldwide attention after a "60 Minutes" special featured the town as the new Nashville. Country stars along with crooner Andy Williams, the Osmond Brothers and Japanese fiddler great Shoji Tabushi built theaters fit for entertainment kings. Still, Branson retained a hokey feel that still remains a perception today, especially among people who can't shake visions of corncob pipes, outlet malls and twangy country tunes.

Branson first became known as a tourist destination in 1907, when Shepherd of the Hills debuted. People traveled from all over the country to see the play about the stoic Missouri hill people that minister Harold Bell Wright met in the early 1900s. The play celebrated its 100th birthday in 2007.

These days, Branson offers nonstop fun -- more than 100 live shows in 52 theaters that rival those found in Las Vegas, amusement parks, 12 championship golf courses, museums, high-end shopping and restaurants -- while still maintaining its original quaintness.

It's become my favorite playground. I'm not alone. In 2006, travel expert Pauline Frommer named Branson a Top 10 Worldwide Destination. To keep up with the latest offerings, be sure to use the Branson/Lakes Area Chamber of Commerce and CVB (www.explorebranson.com) when planning your visit.

The New Branson

Along with Silver Dollar City, Branson's town square was a main tourist destination in the 1970s. It still resembles a movie set for an Andy Griffith Show remake with the Fudge Shop, local diners and The Five and Dime General Store, an authentic five-and-dime where shoppers can still buy souvenir thimbles and spoons, holiday decorations and even underwear.

But walk just a few blocks toward Lake Taneycomo and Branson becomes 21st century glitz. Branson Landing, a $400 million project, offers shops, restaurants and condos along a 1.5-mile scenic boardwalk.

We enjoyed drinks on the patio at Waxy O'Shea's, a quaint Irish pub, and watched the landing's main attraction -- a $7.5 million water extravaganza, created by the team that designed Las Vegas' Bellagio fountain. It's the country's only water, fire, light and music display where fountains shoot 120-foot dancing geysers choreographed with light, fire and music.

Dinner at the 1940s swanky Sullivan's Steak House -- order the filet and a bottle of wine from its mammoth collection -- offers such a close view of the fountain that mist falls on the restaurant's deck.

The Landing is within easy walking distance to the new 200,000-square-foot convention center and the 12-story Hilton Branson Convention Center Hotel.

In the last decade, the city of Branson and Taney County have invested more than $40 million in road improvements to build or rebuild 18 miles of roads to help with traffic flow. Traffic congestion is still a problem on Highway 76, also known as the "Strip." It's wise to have a cup of coffee in Clockers, a cozy downtown diner with hearty country breakfasts and peach cobblers for dessert, and study the color-coded alternative routes before beginning the day.

That's Entertainment!

If the kids say, "We're bored," in Branson, the trip is terribly amiss.

There's no sleeping late in Branson because there are too many activities and shows. (Read about Branson's family friendly shows.) A day in Branson can start right after breakfast and go until midnight when the town basically shuts down.

Many shows offer morning and matinee performances especially on weekends -- a good way to see acts like The Twelve Irish Tenors, Spirit of the Dance and Russian comedian Yakov Smirnoff. Tickets are available throughout the city at various ticket outlets and at the performers' theaters.

In June, Sights and Sound Theatres opened Branson's largest building with its stage phenomenon Noah -- The Musical. According to a source with the production, at least 40 professional actors, along with 75 live and 200 animatronic animals, perform on a 300-foot wraparound stage in a 339,000-square-foot complex.

While the play is long and little mystery shrouds the plot, the sets are some of the most amazing in theater today. Prior to intermission, the cast marches down the theater's center aisle with an array of animals -- geese, donkeys, and llamas, even a zebra. It's hard not to be wowed by the production's enormity. After intermission, the curtains rise on a four-story tiered stage and the audience sits inside the ark with live and animatronic animals.

It's not just about song and dance in Branson. The town has several museums including:

-- Titanic: The world's largest collection of Titanic artifacts -- more than 400 along including one of only three remaining menus from the ship's last dinner.

-- Hollywood Wax Museum: 170-life-like creepy celebrity figures.

-- Veterans Memorial Museum: See the world's largest war memorial bronze sculpture.

-- '57 Heaven at Dick Clark's American Bandstand: The world's largest collection of 1957 automobiles and memorabilia.

Whew! Who's Hungry?

Whether you eat at a chain or local restaurant, the wait is never long for a meal. Servers know they have to move customers in and out quickly in order for them to make the shows -- one of the main reasons people visit Branson. Who wants to be late to see Charo or Chinese acrobats, especially when the average adult ticket runs $30 to $40?

Many theaters offer lunch and dinner in either buffet or sit-down style. At Dick Clark's American Bandstand Grill, I ordered a hearty bowl of baked potato soup and a large salad but was more taken with watching vintage clips of Duran Duran and Prince on American Bandstand.

Some of Branson's best restaurants enjoyed by locals are tucked away from the touristy hustle and bustle:

Clockers -- A country diner with big breakfasts, vast menu of sandwiches, a daily special and yummy peach cobbler.

Tony Z's Italian Ristorante & Lounge -- A romantic Italian restaurant with a dark lounge with featured musicians. Recommended: Steaks and the pasta with shrimp

Ruby Lena's Tea Room -- A quaint tea room in a renovated house near downtown. There's usually a wait but the chicken salad, soups, quiche and bread pudding are worth it.

Danna's Barbecue -- The perfect laid-back spot for a quick barbecue pork sandwich or a sampler platter with ribs, pork and beef.

Candlestick Inn -- Located on a cliff overlooking Lake Taneycomo and Branson Landing serves dinner -- try the Roasted Long Island Duckling or Beef Wellington.

Vacation Travel - Not Your Grandfather's Branson