Athens, Greece: Offbeat Athens
In "seedy-chic" Athens, you'll find slick outdoor restaurants next to Dumpsters and graffiti
I used to think of
But while updating my guidebook last summer, I enjoyed the city more than ever before. I discovered a place that's getting its act together, despite
I discovered much of that energy in the offbeat parts of the city, thanks to
He took me to Exarchia, which is sometimes called the "New Berlin," a student district just a short walk from
From the small
With its penchant for riots and protests, Exarchia may feel less secure than other
A more up-and-coming
The epicenter of the restaurant area is between two squares, Iroon and Agii Anargiri, and along the street that connects them. If you're seeking nightlife, explore the streets spinning off from this central axis.
Farther to the west is the Gazi neighborhood. As a center of
Towering overhead are the square, brick smokestacks of Technopolis, a complex of warehouses and brick factory buildings that now host an eclectic assortment of art exhibits, rock concerts, and experimental theater. The smokestacks are illuminated in red after dark, giving an eerie impression of the neighborhood's former industrial activity. The only permanent exhibit within Technopolis is a free museum dedicated to Greek diva
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