Collard greens

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You can bet your money on a bowl of greens on a summer day. It doesn't matter whether you are serving collards simmered with garlic and red pepper flakes, or Swiss chard brimming with capers and sprinkled with soy sauce -- you will end up a winner.

Years ago, "greens" were associated with down-home cooking of the South, but now they are enjoyed with gusto across country. And for good reason: Leafy vegetables are full of vitamins, minerals and fiber, and low in calories. And can pack a world of flavors.

Today supermarkets and farmers markets almost everywhere offer collards, mustard greens, turnips, kale, dandelion, spinach, chard, broccoli raab and bok choy. You can always find cabbage, a member of the collard greens family, and a standby.

All of these greens are perfect foil for seasonings from around the world. For instance, you can simmer greens with your choice of the following: a couple cloves of crushed garlic, a splash of flavored vinegar, a dab of chutney, a spurt or two of soy sauce, a slug of sweet sherry, or a sprinkling of spice such as cinnamon or allspice or ginger.

Lightly toasted sesame or coriander seeds add a crunchy note. Crushed pink and green peppercorns impart flavor and cachet, and so does a handful of roasted red or yellow peppers. Cider or balsamic vinegar adds an inviting acidic edge, and finely chopped chili peppers or red pepper flakes add heat, which is de rigueur in many a greens lover's pot.

For a touch of the Caribbean, stir in a few tablespoons of coconut milk, a pinch of curry powder and handful of grated fresh coconut, or a good size dab of jerk seasoning. And a favorite season in the South is a few slivers of smoked turkey or a meaty ham bone.

Then savor the goodness.

Here are favorite recipes, along with tips on buying, washing and trimming greens for the pot.

 

SESAME COLLARD GREENS

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

Preparation

Place the washed and trimmed greens into a colander and drain well.

Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons or so of the oil in a large, heavy pot. Place about one-half of the greens at a time in the pot and saute, stirring, for 5 or 6 minutes, or until the greens are wilted. Remove from the pot.

Add the remaining oil and greens and saute in the same way and remove from pan. Add a little more oil to the pan if necessary. Stir in the onions, garlic, and cinnamon or nutmeg, and cook over low heat for 4 or 5 minutes or until the onions are tender and translucent.

Return the reserved greens to the pot. Add the broth or water, salt and black pepper, and mix well. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to middle low, cover and cook the greens for about 15 minutes, turning over the greens several times, or until the leaves are tender.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons oil in a small skillet. Stir in the sesame seeds, and heat over low heat, stirring, until just lightly brown, for 3 or 4 minutes. Watch carefully and don't let the seeds burn.

At serving, sprinkle the toasted seeds over the greens.

Variation:

This dish is also delicious made with bok choy, Swiss chard or broccoli raab, which is a member of the turnip family. Prepare as above, but reduce the simmering time to about 5 minutes.

 

HOT PEPPERCORN GREENS

Makes 4 Servings

Ingredients

Preparation

Wash and drain the greens and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan or pot. Add the bell pepper, jalapeno pepper, garlic, and half of the peppercorns, and saute over low heat for 2 or 3 minutes, stirring.

Stir in the water or broth, salt, black pepper and vinegar. Bring the liquid to a boil, reduce the heat and cook the broth over low heat for about 10 minutes.

Raise the heat to high and stir in the greens, using a long-handled spoon to turn over the leaves in the boiling broth. When the greens are thoroughly immersed in the liquid, reduce the heat to medium low, cover the pot and cook for about 20 minutes, turning over the greens several times, or until the leaves are tender.

Stir in the remaining tablespoon of peppercorns and the chutney, and transfer the greens to a warm serving bowl.

 

SAUTEED BOK CHOY WITH MUSHROOMS

Makes 4 Servings

Ingredients

Preparation

Cut off the base strip at the bottom of the stalks of the bok choy and discard. Separate the stalks and leaves. If the stems of the bok choy leaves are large, chop finely. Wash the leaves and stalks and then drain in a colander.

Heat the oil in a large skillet or saucepan. Stir in the green onions, mushrooms, garlic, crushed red pepper, salt and black pepper, and cook over medium low for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring.

Stir in the bok choy and the coconut milk or broth and saute stirring, 2 or 3 minutes longer, or until the leaves are tender.

Serve over rice or noodles.

 

GINGERED MIXED GREENS

Makes 4 Servings

Ingredients

Preparation

Place the trimmed and washed greens in a colander and drain well.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large pot or saucepan. Add the jalapeno peppers, onions and garlic, and saute 2 or 3 minutes, stirring.

Stir in the broth or water, salt, black pepper and ginger. Cover the pot and simmer for about 15 minutes.

Then raise the heat to high and stir in the greens, using a long handled spoon. When the greens are thoroughly immersed in the liquid, reduce the heat to medium low. Cover the pot and cook the greens for about 20 minutes or until tender, turning over the greens several times.

GOING FOR THE GREEN

Many neophytes fret over how to buy unfamiliar greens, and my concise advice is to approach the job as if you were buying spinach or broccoli or lettuce. That is, avoid greens with wilted or limp and yellowing leaves, and look for small bunches, which offer tender leaves and small stalks that cook quicker.

Since the stalks and thick ribs of all greens should be cut away and discarded, allow at least 8 ounces of greens per serving -- and remember that these leaves can go fast at the table.

But the key is always to look for tender, young greens with small leaves, which are arriving on the market right now, ripe for the picking and quick cooking.

Remember that mustard, kale and turnip greens can be cooked as whole leaves, but you have to cut sturdy collard greens into strips before cooking. To do so, simply cut away tough stems and ribs, roll a stack of the leaves lengthwise and then cut crosswise into 1/4 inch wide strips, or thinner if desired.

You wash all greens the same way you do lettuce or spinach -- until the leaves are free of grit or sand or dirt. To do this, simply place the greens in a dishpan or a sink filled with cold water. Then swish around the greens to remove the grit. Change the water and do this three or four times, or until the greens are free of all debris.

Contrary to popular notions, you don't have to cook a pot of greens nearly all night; most varieties cook in less than 20 minutes. Young tender greens with small leaves, such as Swiss chard and bok choy, can be quickly stir fried or sauteed in a few minutes, or seasoned with garlic and spices and steamed.

Older greens with larger and tougher leaves, such as collards, kale and mustard greens, can be sauteed first with seasoning, and then cooked quickly in liquid or steamed briefly.

Joyce White is a New York-based freelance writer and author of two cookbooks, "Soul Food: Recipes and Reflections from African-American Churches," and "Brown Sugar: Soul Food Desserts from Family and Friends," both published by HarperCollins.

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(c) 2009, Joyce White. DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC