The Jewish New Year is one of the most important occasions on the Jewish calendar. And a central part of its observance is the Rosh Hashanah dinner, which emphasizes sweet foods in hopeful anticipation of a sweet year to come.

For most American Jews, Rosh Hashanah meals are in the Ashkenazi style, with their roots in the customs of their Eastern and Central European forbears. They typically feature brisket with dried fruit, irresistible sweet carrots, and, for dessert, home-baked honey cake. This is the tradition I grew up with. But I must admit that since my in-laws in Israel introduced me to Mediterranean Jewish cuisine years ago, I have enjoyed cooking Rosh Hashanah meals even more. The diverse ingredients and the variety of fresh flavors provide so many opportunities for creativity.

Certain Rosh Hashanah traditions are observed on Jewish tables around the world, such as dipping apples in honey. In Ashkenazi and Sephardic homes alike, fish and sweet vegetables such as carrots and pumpkin are important elements on the menu. To these, however, Jews from Mediterranean lands add their own customs: At the beginning of the meal, they have a mini Seder, or special ceremony that somewhat recalls the Passover Seder. For this Rosh Hashanah ritual they recite special New Year blessings on symbolic foods, including pomegranate seeds to wish for numerous good deeds, leeks and chard for divine protection, and black-eyed peas for abundance.

These special foods are incorporated into Jewish New Year menus in different ways. Frequently, each is prepared on its own as a cold appetizer. Leeks are often braised with a touch of tomato. Chard is sauteed with garlic, olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice. Italian Jews might include beets among the sweet vegetables, and make them into a salad or combine them with potatoes and green beans. Some Moroccan Jews poach the vegetables with raisins or other dried fruit and serve them sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar as a sweet topping for the hearty holiday entree known as couscous with seven vegetables.

Usually, fresh pomegranate seeds are served on their own in small bowls, but they also make a lovely accent for salads of all kinds, and lift the usual green salads or diced Mediterranean vegetable salads to festive status. Along with toasted nuts, they make a colorful, delicious garnish for holiday rice or bulgur wheat side dishes.

Many Mediterranean Jews serve fresh figs for Rosh Hashanah, as they are at the peak of their season, as well as dates. Greek, Turkish and Moroccan Jews serve sweet poached quinces, sometimes as an appetizer. The cinnamon-scented quinces are a lovely accompaniment for a holiday honey cake.

Rosh Hashanah fish prepared the Mediterranean Jewish way is often baked simply with a sprinkling of olive oil, stewed with sweet peppers, or poached in a light tomato sauce, as in the recipe for tilapia in saffron tomato sauce below. The fish is usually served cool or at room temperature as an appetizer.

In most households the holiday entree features beef or chicken. Unlike Ashkenazi cooks, who prefer their chicken roasted for the festive dinner, Mediterranean Jews often braise or stew their chicken. In Greek and Turkish homes, chicken pieces are simmered with tomatoes, white wine, parsley and garlic. Moroccans might prepare meat or chicken as sweet tajines, or lavish stews, with dried fruit, saffron and cinnamon sticks. Some poach chicken or beef meatballs with fresh peas or with sugar-glazed baby onions. For the richly flavored sauces created by these stews, a festive rice pilaf or a platter of steamed couscous, with a topping of toasted almonds and raisins, is the preferred partner.

The selection of elements Mediterranean Jews serve for Rosh Hashanah varies widely from community to community and family to family. Here is an example from Fortunee Hazan-Arama, author of "Saveurs de mon Enfance: La Cuisine Juive du Maroc" (Flavors of my childhood: the Jewish cuisine of Morocco), who lovingly described the sumptuous spread at her family home: "Holiday plates are set on a table covered with a beautiful white tablecloth. Placed in the center, for the blessings, are a dish full of freshly picked apples, a small pot of honey, a small bowl of sesame seeds or of a mixture of anis and sesame seeds and sugar; a bowl of freshly picked green olives, a plate of fresh dates, a plate of raisins, a bowl of preserved quinces, a bowl of jujubes (Chinese dates), a large bowl of pomegranate seeds moistened with orange flower water, a plate with a cooked lamb's head or a cooked fish, a plate of cooked chard; a grand platter of the seven vegetables -- chickpeas, turnips, carrots, onions, green and red squash or pumpkin and raisins, all sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon; a carafe of wine and a ceremonial silver or crystal wine goblet for the kiddush, the blessing over the wine; and two or three home-baked breads."

After that comes the main course!

TILAPIA IN SAFFRON TOMATO SAUCE

If you're looking for a terrific, easy-to-make Rosh Hashanah fish course, try this flavorful Mediterranean-Jewish dish. The fish simmers right in the sauce and can be served hot or cold. You can prepare the sauce ahead and refrigerate or freeze it.

Makes 4 servings for main course or about 6 servings for fish course.

1/8 teaspoon saffron threads

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1/2 cup diced red bell pepper

1 1/2 pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and pureed (or one 28-ounce and one 14-ounce can plum tomatoes, drained and pureed)

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 1/2 to 1 3/4 pounds tilapia fillets, about 1/2 inch thick, or cod or sea bass fillets, about 1 inch thick

3 tablespoons chopped basil, fresh oregano or Italian parsley

Fresh oregano sprigs, for garnish (optional)

Slightly crush saffron with your fingers and soak it in the oil in a small cup for about 20 minutes. Transfer saffron in its oil to a large saute pan or skillet. Add onion and bell pepper, and saute over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes or until onion begins to turn golden. Add tomatoes, salt and pepper, and cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, about 8 to 10 minutes or until thickened.

Add fish fillets in one layer to sauce, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and cook over medium-low heat, spooning sauce over fish from time to time, about 5 minutes for thin fillets or about 10 minutes for 1-inch fillets, or until the thickest part of the fish has changed color inside; checked with a thin, sharp knife. Taste sauce and adjust seasoning. Stir 2 tablespoons basil gently into sauce. Serve hot or cold, sprinkled with remaining basil or garnished with oregano sprigs.

CARROTS AND POTATOES WITH CHARD

In this colorful stovetop casserole, the chard leaves and stems are used separately. The chard leaves cook with garlic to form a sauce for the other vegetables. The chard and vegetable medley is a fine accompaniment to stewed or roast chicken, braised beef or baked fish. You can prepare it in advance, as it reheats beautifully.

Makes 4 servings.

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 large garlic cloves, chopped

6 cups rinsed, finely chopped red or green chard leaves

1 medium onion, chopped

2 cups thin slices red or green chard stems

3/4 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch dice

3/4 pound baking potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch dice

1 1/2 cups vegetable or chicken stock or broth

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large, deep skillet or saute pan, preferably nonstick. Add garlic and saute for 15 seconds over medium-low heat. Add chopped chard leaves with liquid clinging to them, and saute for about 30 seconds. Cover and cook for 2 minutes or until chard is wilted. Remove mixture from pan.

Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to pan. Add onion and saute over medium heat for 3 minutes or until beginning to brown. Add chard stems, carrots and potatoes, and saute, stirring, 2 minutes. Add stock, salt and pepper, and bring to boil. Cover and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes.

Return chard leaves and garlic mixture to pan and cook for 10 minutes or until vegetables are tender, adding a few tablespoons of water if pan becomes dry. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve hot.

MOROCCAN CHICKEN WITH PRUNES, ALMONDS AND COUSCOUS

Braising chicken in a sauce that combines cinnamon, nutmeg and honey with a hint of saffron might sound surprising, but this is a delicious, spectacular dish. It is one of our favorites for Rosh Hashanah. The traditional way to prepare the almonds is to saute them, but I toast them lightly in the oven instead. Some people sprinkle the chicken with toasted sesame seeds as well. If you'd like a touch of green, you can garnish the dish with a sprig of fresh basil.

Makes 4 or 5 servings.

3 pounds chicken pieces, patted dry

2 medium onions, minced

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 cup chicken stock, broth or water

A large pinch of saffron threads (about 1/8 teaspoon)

1 (2-inch) cinnamon stick

1 1/3 cups moist pitted prunes

2 tablespoons honey

Freshly grated nutmeg to taste

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 2/3 cups couscous or a 10-ounce package

1/2 cup whole blanched almonds, lightly toasted

Combine chicken, onions, salt and pepper in a heavy stew pan. Cover and cook over low heat, turning chicken pieces over occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add stock, saffron and cinnamon stick; push cinnamon stick into liquid. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer over low heat, turning pieces occasionally, for about 35 minutes or until breast pieces are tender when pierced with a knife. Transfer them to a plate. Cook remaining chicken pieces, covered, for 10 more minutes or until tender. Transfer chicken to plate.

Add prunes and honey to sauce, and cook uncovered over medium heat for 15 minutes or until prunes are just tender. Transfer prunes to a heated bowl, leaving most of onions in casserole. Cover prunes.

Discard cinnamon stick. Cook sauce over medium heat, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes to thicken it slightly. Add nutmeg. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Return chicken to casserole and turn to coat pieces with sauce. Cover and heat over low heat for 5 minutes.

Combine 2 cups water, 1 tablespoon oil and a pinch of salt and pepper in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil. Stir in couscous, remove from heat and cover. Let stand for 5 minutes.

Fluff couscous with a fork and mound it on a heated platter. Arrange chicken around or over couscous and spoon sauce and prunes over chicken. Garnish with almonds.

 

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