A Wine-Tasting Party to Kickstart Summer

A Wine-Tasting Party to Kickstart Summer

By Mary Gorman-McAdams

For me, Rosé is more than a simple pink wine. While it is a symbol of summer sipping, the diversity of styles makes Rosé a versatile partner at the table.

In preparation for this roundup of Rosé wines, I have tasted as many as possible over the past month. Having bought twelve more bottles last week, I decided to call in the help of four friends to taste them. These are friends who love to cook and eat and enjoy wine, but who are not involved in wine in any way professionally.

Tasting sheets and glass in hand we made steady progress. The exercise was fascinating in many ways. First, it was so much more fun than sipping, swirling and spitting all by myself. Wine, after all is a social drink.

Secondly, it was fascinating to hear their comments -- particularly how quick they cut to the chase on either liking or disliking each wine. As a wine professional, I have to be objective and judge each wine on its intrinsic merit, regardless of whether or not I personally care for it. Despite the different subjective/objective approaches to the tasting, we were pretty unanimous with our favorites. But before discussing the wines we tasted, I'll explain how Rosé wines are made and share a few tips on buying rose.

How Rosé Wine Is Made

Typically Rosé wines are made from black (or red) grapes, and traditionally the wine is fermented dry. While different production methods exist, the most usual is maceration, whereby the black grapes are gently crushed and the juice is left in contact with the skins for short time to extract just enough color to achieve the desired hue. The length of time depends on the grape variety used, as well the winemaker's color and style preference.

Once the maceration is complete, the wine is fermented, like a white wine, off the skins. The choice of fermentation vessel, as well as fermentation temperature, also influences the resulting style of wine. Cooler ferments tend to produce more fruit driven styles, while warmer fermentation temperatures give more structure to the wine.

Some styles such as Blush or Vin Gris are the palest in color, as they do not go through any pre-fermentation maceration. Off-dry or sweeter styles are usually fermented dry and then some sweetening concentrate is added back, or the fermentation is stopped before all the sugar has been converted into alcohol.

Most Rosé wines are best enjoyed within a year or two of their release. While many can hold up well for a few years, they really do not improve with extended bottle age. Colors range from the palest salmon hue to deep neon pink. Aromas and flavors are diverse and run the gamut of strawberry, raspberry, redcurrant, cherry and watermelon interwoven with all sorts of dried herbs, spice and floral notes.

4 Tips for Buying Rosé Wine

1. Look for the current vintage, which this year will be the wines of 2010. We had mixed luck with the 2009s included in the tasting.

2. As most Rosé wines do not indicate whether dry or off-dry, it is worth remembering that in general, Old World producing countries are mainly dry. For the New World, ask the sales assistant, if the back label information does not help. Another tip is to look at the alcohol level. If below 11 percent or 12 percent, chances are it might be off-dry.

3. Ask about the grape variety/varieties. Many Rosé wines are blends of different grape varieties. For example most Provencal and Rhone Rosés are varying blends of Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Syrah. However, today we see much more varietal Rosé, made from every black grape imaginable.

4. Experiment. Rosé wines are keenly priced. Most run from under $10 to about $20. Try different ones for sipping, or for savoring with your favorite summer foods.

The Tasting: Our Favorite Rosés

Two Austrian Rosés, one made from Pinot Noir and one from Zweigelt, topped the bill, though I think the Pinot Noir had a slight edge. Our next favorite was a Rosé from the Basque region of Spain, more austere, slightly spritzy but incredibly minerally and refreshing. Other favorites included a Minervois (Languedoc, France) and one of the Cotes du Rhone.

The most disappointing was a Pinot Grigio Rosato, from the Veneto (Italy), which was flabby, syrupy and tasted of bitter burnt jam. Admittedly, it was a 2009, so slightly over the hill but I think it also seemed "forced," losing its delicacy, which resulted in an aggressive bitterness.

The wines recommended below include the best from recent tastings.

Sono Montenidoli Canaiuolo Rosato, IGT Toscano, Italy, $24

Delicate pale salmon color. Subtle but enticing nose of peonies, exotic citrus and a savory minerality. Crisp, bone dry with layers of delicate red fruit flavors and savory spice. Good structure with minerality following through to a long refreshing finish.

Bonny Doon Vineyard, Vin Gris de Cigare, Central Coast, $15

Very pale salmon color. Attractive nose with notes of white cherries, redcurrants showing hints of dried herbs and an earthy savoriness. Refreshing with lively flavors of wild red berries that persist to a moderately long finish.

Domaine Collotte Marsannay Rosé, Burgundy, France, $15

Made from Pinot Noir this is also pale salmon in color. Refined nose suggestive of fresh wild cherries and raspberries. Crisp, taut and minerally, with delicate but lingering flavors of red fruit and hints of black pepper and underbrush.

Alpha Zeta Rosato, IGT della Provincia di Verona, Italy, $10

Much deeper in color -- almost neon pink. More obviously ripe black cherry and sweet raspberry aromas. Though overtly fruity, the wine is quite dry with spicy, earthy flavors that balance the ripe fruitfulness. Not terribly complex, but a great everyday wine that is robust enough for grilled meats.

Cep d'Or Rosé, Cotes de Provence, France, $12

Very pale salmon hue. Fairly classic Provencal Rosé, with delicate flavors of watermelon, cherry, strawberry laced with notes of earthy garrigue. Refreshing, moderate concentration of flavors that mirror the nose. Perfect with a Salade Nicoise, grilled sardines or even pizza margarita.

Wolffer Rosé, South Fork, Long Island, New York, $14

Made from a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the wine is a pale salmon color. Fairly intense nose of ripe peach, guava and raspberry. Zesty and refreshing with plenty of lively flavors across the palate. Ripe stone and berry fruit flavors follow through to a juicy, fruity finish.

Stift Goettweig Messwein Rosé, Kremstal, Austria, $15

Made form Pinot Noir, this was by far the favorite among the ladies, myself included. It was elegant, well structured with an underlying minerality that gave the wine focus. Delicate aromas and flavors of redcurrants, white cherry and wild strawberry spoke quietly but persistently with hints of spice and dried herbs.

Nigl Zweigelt Rosé, Austria, $18

Another of the ladies' favorite. Though also Austrian, it is made from the local Zweigelt grape. Deeper in color with more lively, upfront fruit, yet it is anchored by a savory earthiness, that helped define the wine. A wine well suited to sipping on its own, or enjoy with cured meats, salami, grilled swordfish or eggplant.

Rubentis Ameztoi, DO Getariako Txakolina, Spain, $23

Delicious, racy, spritzy, minerally and slightly austere. If you are a high-acid fan, then this is one for you. Delicate flavors leaning toward orange citrus, sour cherry and wild strawberry. Wonderfully refreshing and lively on the palate. Moderately long minerally finish. I liked this on its own but it almost begs for some fatty cured meats, oily fish such as sardines or rouget. It worked perfectly with our chilled asparagus soup topped with warm poached egg.

Domiane Tour Boisee Rosé, Minervois, France, $12

A very strong favorite of one of the ladies. Another old world minerally, dry Rosé. Others thought it a little simple. I quite liked its subtlety and savoriness. Pale salmon, dry, not very fruity -- more delicate aromas and flavors of watermelon, cranberry and savory dried herbs. A versatile wine for summer salads, simple grilled fish or a tomato tarte Tatin.

Domaine les Aphillanthes, Cotes du Rhone Rosé, $15

This was the preferred of the two Cotes du Rhone tasted. Deeper in color -- almost sockeye salmon. Dry and fairly broad flavored, earthy, almost a little rustic (or honest if you prefer) but has some complexity -- certainly not a styled wine. Made from a fairly typical Rhone blend of Carignan, Grenache and Mourvedre. Would be great with more robust dishes such as lamb kebabs or a hamburger.

Olivares Rosado, Jumilla, Spain, $10

Made from Monastrell (known as Mourvedre in France), this wine was fairly neon pink in color. Most of the ladies expected it to be sweet and were pleasantly surprised to find it dry and somewhat earthy. Monastrell is not a shy variety and this is a more full-bodied Rosé. The flavors are very ripe -- black and red cherries and berries. Delicious with salami or other fatty cured meats.

Las Lilas Vinho Verde Rosado, Portugal, $9

A delightful, easy drinking, slightly off-dry Rosado. It wasn't a firm favorite but I found it quite pretty. Spritzy with racy acidity that nicely balances the slight sweetness on the finish. Light-bodied (only 10.5 percent alcohol), this is a very pleasant summer sipper, either on its own or with light hors d'oeuvres.

Vina Salamanca Rosado de Lagrima Vino de la Tierra de Castilla Y Leon, Spain, $12

Made from a blend of the local, little known variety Rufete, and the well-known Tempranillo. Quite deep pink in color, the nose displays warm, jammy red fruit, with hints of creamy caramel and anise. Fairly robust, yet fruity and modern, it is broad on the palate with warm ripe red and black flavors that would pair well with a nicely charred flank steak with chermoula.

Quo Grenache Rosado, Campo de Borja, Spain, $10

Made from Grenache (Garnacha in Spain). Deep pink color. Lush, jammy aromas of mixed berries, hints of spice. Smooth texture, with lots of juicy, ultra-ripe flavors of raspberry and strawberry compote. Easy drinking, not very long but has an attractive earthy kick on the finish. Would work well with merguez or other grilled spicy sausage.

Lealtanza Rosado, Rioja, Spain, $15

Made from Tempranillo, deep cherry pink color. Aromas of sweet red berries with hints of orange citrus. Creamy candied flavors of cherry compote, pineapple and cranberry. Refreshing tang balances the sweet fruit. Easy drinking, summer sipper to enjoy on its own or pair with that would work with tapenade, salami, olives or pizza.

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