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For years only garlic growers knew the wonders of something called scapes. These are the stalks that sprout from the center of the plant. These days, with the proliferation of farmer's markets and Community Supported Agriculture, scapes can be found quite readily this time of the year.

The stalks are tubular, a quarter-inch thick and rise to about two feet with a long teardrop shaped seed head pointing skyward. After a week or so the stalks curl around resembling the letter P. That's when they are usually harvested.

Gardeners and farmers alike know that the scapes must be removed if the garlic plant is to focus its energy on producing big bulbs. Once the scapes are removed, the last place they should go is to the compost pile! They are a delicacy offering a milder and different flavor from the cloves. It's often described as a "green" flavor, but you'll have to judge for yourself.

I do leave a few scapes on my plants, where they produce bulblets that if left on the plant would dry and drop to the ground eventually becoming a bulb. But I love to nibble on them in the garden well before that. They have the same fire as cloves in a bite-sized package.

One weird thing about harvesting scapes is that they continue to make the bulbets even when removed from the plant and left in the garden. I wish I knew why -- I guess another mystery of nature.

The scapes can be used many ways in the kitchen. They are great in salads and soups, with eggs, in salad dressings and in stir fries. I love to use them finely chopped on pizza. They make a great addition to any sauce for pasta.

Pickled scapes are a wonderful treat and easy to make, but it's rare to find them anywhere but on a farm. If you're a grower, pickling is a great way to use up the scapes you can't sell. If you're an experienced canner, this will be child's play.

Chop the scapes into about 3-inch segments and put them aside. Combine 1/4 cup of canning salt, 2 1/2 cups of vinegar and the same amount of water, and bring it to a boil. Pack the scapes lengthwise into hot jars, leaving about a quarter inch on top. Add some hot pepper, depending on how spicy you like it, and a head of dill to each jar. Pour the hot liquid over the scapes, again leaving a quarter inch of space on top. Remove the air bubbles and adjust the two-piece lid, screwing it tight. Process the jars for about 10 minutes in a boiling water canner.

Look for scapes this month in your CSA or at farmer's markets -- the divine taste might even encourage you to plant some garlic bulbs this fall.

My favorite way to use fresh scapes is in garlic pesto, in which minced scapes are substituted for basil. The recipe below comes from Pittsburgh chef Brandy Stewart.

Hazelnut Pesto with Garlic Scapes

20 fresh garlic scapes in season.

2 cups Campo de Montalban cheese, grated

1/2 cup hazelnuts

2 cups safflower oil

1/2 cup good white wine (optional)

Salt and pepper to taste

1 pound pasta (I prefer linguini)

Drizzle of olive oil, to finish

Add scapes, cheese and nuts to a food processor and begin to process. Keep processing while adding the safflower oil and wine (if desired), a little at a time until you have reached desired thickness. Pesto can be served in a variety of consistencies, from very thick to rather thin, depending on preference.

Blend until smooth and paste-like, and then season to taste with salt and pepper, and mix well.

Bring water to boil in a large pot, add pasta and cook until al dente. Drain pasta and add pesto. Finish with a drizzle of good extra-virgin olive oil.

 

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Hazelnut Pesto with Garlic Scapes - Recipe

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