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On summer Sunday afternoons in my youth, the family often gathered around a plank wood table at the bottom of the hill at our homestead down South. The table would be covered with a pretty cloth and shaded by tall pines trees, and on it would be a resplendent meal.

The chicken had been fried in early morning and by then was full of flavor, thanks to a buttermilk marinade and a generous sprinkling of black pepper. And although the fried chicken was de rigueur, the rest of the menu varied according to fancy or what was coming out of the garden. Often there was a bowl of fresh butter beans with slivers of smoked ham, or a pan of sauteed squash glistening with sage and onions. A bowl of briny potato salad sometimes edged out macaroni salad, and pickled shrimp vied with pickled okra, both of which were stirred with vinegar, herbs, garlic, and thinly sliced onions and slivers of bell peppers in rainbow colors.

A platter of garden-fresh sliced tomatoes invariably graced the table too, and so did deviled eggs. And Mama's biscuits were always wrapped in tea towels and slipped into brown paper bags to keep them warm.

Cooling drinks ranged from lemonade to iced tea and beer and sips of chilled bourbon. Dessert was a palette of sweet things: homemade vanilla ice cream served in cut glass bowls with a topping of fresh peaches sweetened and simmered with vanilla or almond flavoring. But what I loved most a moist and delectable Buttermilk Ginger Cake that was served with a berry sauce. It is baked in one pan and is easy to transport.

And sometimes my sister Helen, who was a cook at a local cafe, would treat us to her chocolate layer cake, but I was equally as pleased with her delectable double fudge cake-like brownies. They are easily packed to go, too.

"Eating outdoors soothes the soul," I remember my oldest brother John saying years ago as we gathered in his backyard on the Gulf Coast over a traditional feast. And so it does. Whenever I attend a summer picnic, be it in a park or backyard or beach or patio a thousand miles away from yesteryear's setting, by early nightfall I'm home again, under the stars down South.

A favorite Southern menu and recipes follow.

MENU

Southern Fried chicken

Pickled Shrimp with Bell Peppers

Herb Potato Salad

Tomato Wedges

Sauteed Summer Squash or Zucchini

Buttermilk Ginger Cake

Berry Fruit Sauce

Double Fudge Brownies

Watermelon Wedges

Biscuits or Hot Rolls

Party Lemonade, Rose Wines

SOUTHERN FRIED CHICKEN

For best flavor, search around for free range organic chicken.

Serves 4 or 5.

3 1/2 pounds chicken parts

1 cup buttermilk

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1 teaspoon mild paprika

Pinch of hot cayenne, if desired

2 to 3 teaspoons finely ground black pepper, less if desired

3/4 cup flour

3 cups peanut or grapeseed oil, or as needed

Trim away any excess fat and skin from chicken. Rinse the chicken well under cold running water, and pat with paper toweling. Place in a large bowl. Pour over the buttermilk and marinate for at least 1 hour.

Drain the chicken and dry again with paper toweling. Sprinkle the chicken with the salt, paprika, cayenne and black pepper.

When ready to fry the chicken, pour oil into a large heavy cast iron skillet (I use a 12-inch skillet) or pot to a level at least 2 inches deep. Place the skillet on high heat, attach a deep-frying thermometer and heat the oil to 360 degrees.

Meanwhile, pour the flour into a plastic or brown paper bag. Place the chicken into the bag and shake the bag to completely coat the chicken with the flour. Remove the chicken and dust off any excess flour.

When the surface of the oil is rippling and the thermometer registers 360 degrees, add several pieces of the chicken at a time, beginning first with the legs and thighs, then the wings and breasts. Don't overcrowd the pan or the chicken will steam.

Fry the chicken until it is golden brown and the juices run golden when pierced with a fork. The thighs and legs should cook in 20 to 25 minutes, the wings in 18 to 20 minutes, and if you use chicken breasts, in about 15 minutes.

If the temperature drops below 360 degrees, let the oil heat back up before adding more chicken. Remove the chicken from the hot oil and drain on paper toweling. Keep warm in a 200 F oven.

Variation: Many Southern cooks say that for fried chicken with a crispy, crackling-like skin, the pan has to be covered during half of the cooking period. My sister Helen favored this method. Here's the way: heat the oil to about 350 degrees, add a few pieces of chicken at a time, cover the pan, lower the temperature a bit, and cook the chicken covered for 5 minutes. Remove the cover, turn over the chicken, and cook covered for 5 more minutes. Uncover the chicken for the remaining cooking period and continue cooking until the chicken is golden brown and the juices run golden when pierced with a fork.

OVEN FRIED CHICKEN

If you just can't stand the heat of standing over a pan of frying chicken, season and flour the chicken as directed in the recipe for Southern Fried Chicken. The chicken skin doesn't come out crackling crisp, but the chicken is still delicious.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Pour about 1/2 cup cooking oil of choice into a large, heavy roasting pan. Place the pan into the hot oven and heat for at least 5 minutes. Carefully remove the pan from the oven and immediately place in the chicken pieces in a single layer, not touching. Return the pan back to the oven and place on the lower shelf.

Oven-fry the chicken for 25 to 30 minutes, or until browned. Using long tongs, carefully turn over the chicken, and oven-fry for 15 to 20 minutes longer or until it is golden brown and registers 170 degrees when an instant read thermometers is inserted into the thickest part. The wings and breast will brown quicker than the thighs and legs.

Drain the chicken on paper towels and serve immediately.

Pickled Shrimp With Bell Peppers

2 pounds large or jumbo shrimp

6 cups water

1 to 2 tablespoon crushed coriander seeds

1 large onion

2 large red or yellow or orange bell peppers

2 cloves garlic

2 or 3 tablespoons fresh chopped dill or 2 teaspoons of dried dill

1/2 cup cider vinegar

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot pepper flakes

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Watercress, washed, drained and chilled

Peel and devein the shrimp, rinse with cold water and drain. Pour the 6 cups water into a large pot. Add the crushed coriander seeds. Bring to a rolling boil. Add the shrimp and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, or until they are pink and tender. Watch carefully and don't overcook. Drain the shrimp and set aside.

Rinse all of the vegetables, drain and prepare for pickling: Thinly slice the onion, core and cut the bell peppers into thin strips, mince or crush the garlic and chop the dill.

Place the vegetables in a large stainless steel pan. Add the vinegar, olive oil, hot pepper flakes, salt and pepper, and mix well. Set the pan on medium high heat and bring to a gentle boil, stirring. Immediately remove the pan of vegetables from the heat and cool completely.

Stir in the drained cooked shrimp. Transfer the shrimp and vegetables to a large bowl. Cool completely, cover and chill several hours or overnight.

At serving, drain the shrimp, mound on a platter, decorate with watercress if desired, and provide small plates so that guests can help themselves.

Variation: Substitute two pounds fresh okra pods for the shrimp and cook the okra in boiling water for 3 or 4 minutes or until just tender.

HERBED POTATO SALAD

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

2 pounds small waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons cider or wine vinegar

2 or 3 cloves garlic, crushed

1 1/2 tablespoons, or more if desired, prepared mustard such as Gulden or Dijon-style mustard

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, basil or cilantro

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup very finely chopped scallions, white and green parts or

1 small onion, finely chopped

1/4 cup dry white wine or vermouth or chicken broth

Crisp, chilled Boston, red or green leaf lettuce

Tomatoes wedges

Rinse and scrub the potatoes and then cut away any blemishes. Place the potatoes in a medium-large saucepan with the water to cover at least by 1 inch. Sprinkle in 1/2 teaspoon salt.

Cover the pot, bring the water to a boil, and then cook the potatoes over medium high heat for about 12 minutes or until they are just tender when pierced with a fork. Don't cook the potatoes until falling apart.

While the potatoes cook, make the salad dressing: in a small bowl combine the olive oil, vinegar, garlic, mustard, parsley, basil or cilantro, 1 teaspoon salt, black pepper to taste, scallions or onions. Beat briskly with a fork until well combined.

Drain the cooked potatoes and rinse with cold water. Peel immediately. Let cool for 10 minutes or until you can easily cut into 1/4-inch thick slices without the potatoes crumbling.

Place the potatoes in a bowl. Pour the wine or vermouth or chicken broth into a small pan and heat over medium heat for a minute or two, just until hot. Drizzle the liquid over the potatoes, mixing well but gently with a rubber spatula.

Then generously drizzle the potatoes with more than half of the salad dressing and mix well with the spatula. Don't chill the potatoes; this dish tastes best at room temperature.

To serve: Arrange the lettuce leaves on a large platter. Spoon the potatoes into the center of the platter. Surround the potatoes with the tomato wedges and spoon over some of the remaining salad dressing, if desired.

SAUTEED SUMMER ZUCCHINI OR SQUASH

My dear departed friend Ann Birchett contributed this recipe to my cookbook "Soul Food." Ann loved summer squash, and so do I.

Serves 4 to 6.

2 pounds zucchini or yellow squash, or a mixture of the two

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 medium onions

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or 2 teaspoons dried basil

3 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil or olive oil or bacon drippings

Rinse the zucchini and squash, drain well and pat dry with paper toweling. Cut off stems and discard; then slice the zucchini or squash crosswise into 1/4-inch slices. Sprinkle the vegetables with the salt and pepper.

Rinse, peel and slice the onion. Chop the fresh basil or crush the dried herb.

Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet. Add the zucchini or squash, onions and basil. Cook over medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes or until the squash is tender and lightly brown, turning over occasionally so as to brown evenly.

This dish is equally delicious served hot or at room temperature. To reheat, place in a heavy skillet and heat over a medium-low heat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

PARTY LEMONADE

Southerners like to say that nothing quenches a fearsome summer thirst like this delicious sappy, sweet lemonade. Perhaps. Adults relish this lemonade stirred with a slug of good quality gin.

Makes about 2 quarts.

4 to 6 large lemons

1/2 to 1 cup sugar, depending on desired sweetness

1/2 cup gin, if desired

2 cups boiling water

3 cups cold water

1 tray (12) ice cubes

Rinse the lemons, discard the stems, and roll on a table until soft. Place on a cutting board, and slice crosswise as thinly as possible.

Place the lemon slices in a glass bowl and sprinkle over the sugar. Stir in the gin.

Pour over the boiling water and let the lemons set at least 30 minutes, occasionally pressing the slices against the sides of the bowl to extract as much flavor as possible. When the mixture is thoroughly cool, stir in the cold water.

At serving time, pour the lemon mixture into a chilled pitcher, add the ice cubes and serve immediately in chilled glasses.

Two Chocolate Brownies

My late sister Helen was an expert at baking chocolate desserts. She made these delectable brownies with both cocoa and bar chocolate.

Makes 24 brownies.

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa, not Dutch Processed

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup pecans, or more if desired

6 ounces semi-sweet chocolate

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 eggs, at room temperature

2 or 3 tablespoons crystallized sugar such as Sugar in the Raw

Preheat the oven to 350 F. Butter an 8- or 9-inch square baking or cake pan, and dust lightly with flour, shaking out excess.

Sift together the flour, cocoa, baking soda and salt. Coarsely chop the pecans and set aside. Cut the chocolate into 1-inch pieces.

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat. Add the chocolate and heat, stirring, just until the chocolate melts. Remove the pan from the heat right away.

Stir in the sugar and vanilla extract, and mix well. Cool the mixture for about 10 minutes, or until just lukewarm. Whisk in the eggs one at a time, and beat the batter until it is smooth and glossy.

Stir in the flour mixture and then the nuts, and mix only until the batter is just blended.

Spread the batter evenly in the prepared pan. Set the pan on the middle oven rack and bake the brownies for about 10 minutes. Scatter the top of the brownie layer with the crystallized sugar. Bake the brownie layer for 10 to 15 minutes longer or until a tester inserted in the center comes out moist but clean.

Remove the pan from the oven and set on a wire rack. Allow the brownies to remain in the pan for at least 3 hours or longer.

When brownie cake is thoroughly cooled, using a serrated knife, cut into 2-inch square pieces while still in the pan. Run a metal spatula around the edge of the brownies and remove the pieces from the pan.

Joyce White is a New York-based freelance writer and author of two cookbooks, "Soul Food : Recipes and Reflections from African-American Churches," and "Brown Sugar: Soul Food Desserts from Family and Friends," both published by HarperCollins.)

Available at Amazon.com:

Brown Sugar: Soul Food Desserts from Family and Friends

Soul Food : Recipes and Reflections from African-American Churches

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Simply Organic: A Cookbook for Sustainable, Seasonal, and Local Ingredients

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