Classic Itlian Calzones

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A cross between a pizza and a turnover, the calzone encloses and seals the filling inside a half-moon of dough

When you think about it pizza as we know it really is an American discovery. Or at least it's an American evolution of an Italian standby.

Traditional Italian pizzas tend to be fairly simple, but totally delicious, things: rustic, wood-fired crusts topped with good crushed tomatoes, maybe some mozzarella and fresh basil (for a classic pizza Margherita), and possibly vegetables like artichoke hearts, mushrooms, or olives and meats such as salami, prosciutto, or pepperoni. Yes, there are regional variations, too, that might include different cheeses like Gorgonzola, ricotta, or Parmesan; pesto sauce or just a drizzle of olive oil; various kinds of seafood; and even an egg that cooks in the oven's heat. But they're all recognizably Italian.

American-style pizza, however, can be another thing entirely, especially as it has evolved in California since the 1980s. (And I'm proud to say that I played a part in that process when I opened Spago in 1982.)

Chefs in America have helped to make pizza an international phenomenon, both in its popularity and its ingredients. When you order a pizza topped with barbecue sauce and chicken, or ham and pineapple, or cream cheese and smoked salmon (my own innovation at Spago), you can thank America for how far pizza has come from its Italian origins --and how much fun it can be to come up with creative new toppings.

However, I'd like to share with you a variation that stays close to tradition: the calzone. A cross between a pizza and a turnover, the calzone encloses and seals the filling inside a half-moon of dough.

I love making them. They're beautiful to look at, with a deep golden-brown, crispy crust on both the bottom and the top. And the flavors of a good calzone can be memorable, the crust sealing in all the incredible aromas of sauce, cheese, and other ingredients. Just remember to be careful when you cut the calzone open and you take your first bite, because the filling, and the fragrant steam, will be extra-hot!

For the recipe I share with you here, I've stuck to classic Italian ingredients -- artichoke hearts, porcini mushrooms, garlic, herbs, and mozzarella and fontina cheeses. Once you get the hang of making them, however, you can branch out with your own calzone variations -- even all-American ones.

CALZONE WITH ARTICHOKES AND PORCINI MUSHROOMS

Makes 4 individual calzones

1 recipe Pizza Dough (recipe follows), divided into 4 equal balls

2 tablespoons Chili Oil (recipe follows)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 large artichoke hearts, thinly sliced

1-1/2 cups fresh porcini mushrooms, wiped clean and, if large, sliced; or sliced cremini mushrooms

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese

1 cup shredded fontina cheese

2 tablespoons chopped garlic

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

At least 3 hours beforehand, or the night before, prepare the Pizza Dough and Chili Oil.

Preheat the oven with a pizza stone or baking tiles inside at 500 degrees F. for 30 minutes.

Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Saute the artichokes and mushrooms until lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a bowl to cool.

On a lightly floured surface, stretch a ball of dough into an even circle 9 inches in diameter. Brush to within 1 inch of its edge with 1/2 tablespoon of chili oil. Spread one quarter each of the mozzarella and fontina on half of the circle, leaving the 1-inch border. Top with a quarter each of the artichoke-mushroom mixture, garlic, and thyme. Assemble the remaining dough the same way.

Moisten the borders with water. Fold the untopped halves over the filling, trapping as much air inside as possible. Press the edges firmly to seal, then crimp by pressing down with the tines of a fork.

With a pizza peel or rimless baking sheet, slide the calzones onto the hot pizza stone or tiles and bake until golden brown, about 12 minutes. Use the pizza peel or baking sheet to transfer to individual plates. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with Parmesan. Serve immediately.

PIZZA DOUGH

Makes 4 individual calzones

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra if necessary

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon honey

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3/4 cup cool water

1 packet active dry yeast

1/4 cup warm water

Put the flour in a food processor.

In a small bowl, stir together the salt, honey, olive oil, and cool water.

Dissolve the yeast in the 1/4 cup warm water and leave until bubbly, 10 minutes.

With the motor running, slowly pour in the cool water mixture and then the dissolved yeast. Process until the dough forms a ball on the blade. If it looks sticky, pulse in a little extra flour.

Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth. Transfer to a lightly greased bowl and let rest, covered, for 30 minutes.

Divide into 4 equal pieces. Roll each into a smooth, tight ball. Place on a baking sheet, cover with a damp towel, and refrigerate. One hour before baking, remove from the refrigerator and let come to room temperature.

CHILI OIL

Makes 1 cup

1 cup peanut oil or olive oil

1/4 cup crushed red pepper flakes

In a saucepan, heat the oil until very hot but not smoking. Stir in the pepper flakes and remove from the heat. Let stand until cool.

Strain into a clean bottle and use as desired. Stored in the refrigerator, the oil will keep for up to 3 months.

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Calzones With Artichokes and Porcini Mushrooms - Wolfgang Puck Recipes

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