Butternut Squash Ravioli

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Remember those Thanksgiving dinners in your childhood when mom would plop on your plate a runny spoonful of something orange that looked like baby food?

That was many people's first look at squash. For some it was their last.

That's a shame, because there's more to do with this versatile veggie than simply smashing it into a pulp. Squash can be baked, steamed, boiled, stir-fried and even grilled. Just like any ingredient for cooking, the imagination of the cook is the only thing that limits its use.

This time of the year, gardeners and farmers alike are picking lots of winter squash, and each variety offers something special. If you find one at a farmer's market or in your weekly CSA box, don't freak out, even if it's one of the weirder looking varieties.

One of the ugliest squashes around is the Blue Hubbard. These monsters are huge, weighing 10 to 15 pounds, with a smooth, grayish-blue skin. A gardener pulled me aside last year to extol the virtues of the strange looking orb, telling me she used it to make the finest pumpkin pie ever. I gave it a try and had to agree with that assessment. There's something about the fine texture and sweet flavor of the Blue Hubbard that beats its orange cousin hands down. I'll never make a pie out of pumpkin again.

The most popular winter squashes -- and probably the one that was on the table for Thanksgiving in your youth -- is Acorn, named for its shape. One of the easiest ways to use them is to cut them in half, remove the seeds and pulp, and then rub the flesh with brown sugar and butter. Bake the squash for an hour (cut side up) at 400 degrees. Try adding a little maple syrup before serving for extra sweetness and the kids will be begging for more.

Butternut squashes are cream-colored, oblong vegetables often shaped like a giant pear. Inside is sweet, orange flesh that has a hint of nuttiness, in a good way. Butternut squash can be used in many ways; I love to use the baked flesh for ravioli.

If you're lucky, the farmer's market will offer heirloom squashes of different shapes, colors and textures. Don't be shy; talk to the vendor and choose one for its sweet flesh, and then find an interesting recipe. Unfamiliar squashes can be scary looking and a bit intimidating, but there's a reason they're at the market.

One of the great things about hard skinned squash is that it can be stored for months. When choosing a squash, make sure it's fresh. It should be firm and heavy, with a dull skin -- not glossy. The outside should be hard; never choose any squash that shows signs of mold or soft, wet areas -- it's already started to degrade.

Squashes in general are good for you: They're filled with beta-carotene, and they're a good source of fiber, potassium, magnesium, manganese, and vitamins A, B and C.

No matter what the variety of squash you choose, don't forget to harvest the seeds. They can be prepared just like pumpkin seeds; some are huge, and they are all tasty.

Have fun creating something wonderful with squash this fall. You'll enjoy the results, and you might just help the next generation look more kindly on this sweet treat.

Butternut Squash Ravioli

This recipe looks more complicated than it is, and it's my favorite way to use squash. Won ton wrappers are an easy way to make the ravioli, but if you really want to do it up right, make the dough from scratch.

Filling:

2 pound butternut squash, halved lengthwise and seeded

1 chopped medium onion

3 teaspoons fresh sage

2 tablespoons butter

3 minced garlic cloves

3 ounces aged grated goat cheese

60 won ton wrappers

1 stick butter

1/3 cup hazelnuts, toasted and chopped coarse

Preheat oven to 425 F and lightly grease a baking sheet.

To make the filling, put squash halves, cut sides down on a baking sheet and roast for about a half hour or until tender. Cool and remove the flesh, discard the skin and mash the flesh with a fork or potato masher.

In a frying pan, cook the onion and sage in butter with salt and pepper to taste over moderate heat for about five minutes; add the garlic for about a minute or two.

Cool onion mixture and mix in with squash, adding the goat cheese also.

Put one won ton wrapper on a lightly floured surface, keeping remaining wrappers in plastic wrap, and mound one tablespoon filling in center. Don't put too much filling in, just stick with a tablespoon. Lightly brush edges of wrapper with water and put a second wrapper over first, pressing down around filling to force out air and seal edges well. Transfer ravioli to a dry kitchen towel. Continue the process with more ravioli.

In skillet cook butter with hazelnuts over moderate heat until butter begins to brown, for about 3 minutes, and remove from the heat. Season hazelnut butter with salt and pepper to taste and keep warm, covered.

Cook ravioli in three or four batches in gently boiling water for about five or six minutes; they will rise to when they are done. Use a slotted spoon and move the ravioli to a baking pan and keep it warm. Top with the hazelnut butter sauce and serve.

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Butternut Squash Ravioli - Recipe

(c) 2010 Doug Oster