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Around the Mediterranean, from Spain to Turkey and from Lebanon to Morocco, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants are used together as the basis of countless dishes. Whether they are made into appetizers, side dishes or entrees, they are universally loved. They embody the lively color and flavors of the Mediterranean and often are cooked together with the region's favorite flavors -- olive oil and garlic. Most can be made in advance and can be served hot or at room temperature.

One of the simplest and best is Spanish escalivada, a Catalan specialty. The vegetables are simply roasted in pieces, mixed gently and served sprinkled with extra virgin olive oil, minced fresh garlic, salt and freshly ground pepper.

Similar salads are made in the Balkans, sometimes with chilies added. The vegetables might be finely diced or even pureed to form a spread, which gains a vivid red hue if the peppers chosen are red ones.

Moroccan cooks use the same vegetables to achieve a different effect. They dice eggplant small and cook it in oil with diced zucchini, crushed garlic, paprika and salt, and then simmer the mixture with diced tomatoes. Separately grilled peppers, both sweet and hot, are later added to simmer briefly with the other vegetables. Served hot or cold, this lively starter is sometimes flavored with cumin or vinegar.

Not surprisingly, Italian cooks turn the Mediterranean trio into pasta sauces. Eggplant and peppers might be grilled, and then part of the grilled eggplant is chopped and cooked in a tomato sauce. This savory sauce is tossed with penne or spaghetti and extra virgin olive oil and garnished with the grilled vegetables and fresh basil.

You could consider all these dishes cousins of Provencal ratatouille, the celebrated southern French dish that features eggplant slices, zucchini, onion and peppers fried in olive oil, and then simmered in a garlicky, herb-scented tomato sauce.

The Mediterranean trio is not reserved exclusively for vegetarian dishes. In Eastern Mediterranean countries, poultry or meat might join the vegetables. Cooks in Balkan countries simmer chicken pieces with browned eggplant, peppers and tomatoes. Lebanese cooks bake the same vegetables as a casserole with lamb cubes. A Turkish specialty called eggplant kebab is sometimes made as a stew featuring lamb cubes browned with chopped onions, simmered with diced tomatoes and served atop fried eggplant slices. The peppers come as garnish, either sweet ones in strips or hot ones grilled and served whole.

For cooks, the vegetables of the Mediterranean trio are the joy of late summer. Enjoy them while they are at the height of their season.

BALKAN GRILLED EGGPLANT-PEPPER SALAD WITH TOMATOES AND CHILIES

Throw some bell peppers on the grill alongside an eggplant to prepare this tasty appetizer. Serve it with crusty bread or fresh pita.

If you like, you can broil and peel the tomatoes before dicing them and adding them to the salad. For a bright red salad, use 3 or 4 broiled red peppers; blend them in a food processor along with eggplant to a chunky puree and then stir in the finely diced tomatoes. For a milder taste, omit the chilies.

Makes 6 servings.

2 long, fairly slender eggplants (about 2 pounds total)

2 red or green bell peppers

1 or 2 jalapeno peppers

2 medium garlic cloves, minced

3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley (optional)

2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon wine vinegar (optional)

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 or 2 plum tomatoes, diced

Capers (optional, for garnish)

Prick eggplants a few times with fork. Grill eggplants above medium-hot coals about 40 minutes or broil them for 25 to 30 minutes, turning often, until skin blackens and flesh is tender.

Grill or broil bell peppers and jalapeno peppers, turning them often, until their skins blister all over; bell peppers need about 15 minutes, and jalapenos need only 3 or 4 minutes. Transfer peppers to a bowl and cover tightly; or put sweet and hot peppers in separate plastic bags and close bags. Let stand for 10 minutes. Peel sweet and hot peppers using paring knife and remove seeds. Dice sweet peppers. Mince jalapeno peppers.

Leave eggplants until cool enough to handle. Remove eggplant skin and cut off caps. Halve eggplants and drain off any liquid inside. Chop eggplant flesh to a chunky puree.

Transfer eggplant to a bowl. Add garlic, parsley, olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Stir in peppers, chilies and diced tomatoes. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve cold or at room temperature, garnished, if you like, with capers.

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